1st gen Barracuda in Richmond, VA this morning
(RIP potato cam focus)
@awesomeaustinv Your TBird is a tall order for what I'm imagining was a Honda screw/scissor style jack. I'd recommend a hydraulic bottle jack, strong enough to move and lift the car, small enough to not be a major pain in the ass when you need to employ it.
I've been trying to keep my distance and not startle her, but she's positioned between the front door and the driveway (also trash can), so she gives me a little fly-by and some harsh chirps nearly every time I leave the house. Tonight I noticed a bit of fluff in the top of the nest, as opposed to the baby blue eggs, and when I peered closer I noticed the lump of fluff was breathing and had a face only a mother could love.
I think there were three eggs, not sure how many nestlings there are so far. I'm looking forward to a spring/summer of trying to avoid the nestlings/fledglings that will be yelling at mom for food and exploring my front yard.
I stopped reading halfway through the third sentence to give you a star, and the rest of the post makes me wish I could give another.
Does that last one have a Crown Vic frame? Sure isn't the original.
I was about to comment that the 3rd had '90s S10 wheels, and the 1st had '90s Ranger/Exploder wheels, so that may be a 94+ S10/S15 frame under that thing.
The firewall is cutout for what looks to be an absolute handful of a drivetrain.
@ttyymmnn In regards to the deductible, USAA may be willing to waive the deductible if Progressive has already accepted liability. If not, you can pursue the claim through Progressive as a claimant, where you'll have no deductible. Give USAA a call and see what they say, and if their answers aren't satisfactory, call Progressive. Did the police come to the scene of the accident? Was the at fault party issued a citation? That'll help expedite determination of liability.
As for determining severity of an accident, I would talk to my customer and look at the car, both of which seem to be dying skills in collision estimating. In the office, before I'd even walked out to the parking lot with a customer, I'd ask how they're doing (whiplash is certainly a sign of a substantial energy transfer, especially in modern vehicles), where the accident happened (helps me judge speeds involved), if both parties were moving or if someone was stationary, was anyone slowed down for any reason, etc. Once we got to the vehicle, I'd usually circle it a couple times, gauging the condition of the car and looking for signs. In your case (a rear end impact), I'd start looking at the gaps from the quarter panels to the rear door edges (assuming 4dr). Quite often, the gap will be wide at the top and closed at the bottom indicating structural movement (back end of the car buckled down). Sighting across the quarter panels looking for ripples/buckles, especially at the wheel opening area. You've got two or three layers of metal there, and the shape of the wheel opening promotes the quarters to buckle outward there when they're compressed in a rear end impact. I'd also take a look at the trunk/decklid (again, assuming sedan) gaps to the quarter panels, again checking for flushness to adjacent panels and any deviations of gap width, both in line and for side-to-side symmetry. Odd gaps from taillights to quarters/decklids can tip you off to rear body damage (when the rear body buckles, it can twist the taillight mounts). I'd then open the trunk, lift up the interior trim, and take a look at the floor and rear body in the spare tire well. Cracked sound deadening/flaking paint/etc are all good signs of impact. I'd then usually crawl underneath the car and get eyes/hands on framerails/rear body/floor/rear bumper inner structure. I was a bit of a pesky asshole (as far as insurance carriers were concerned) that carried a toolbag. I'd pull bumper covers/undershields/fender liners/trunk interior trim panels/taillights to get a solid estimate (I was also usually the guy running scheduling and production in the shop, so I wanted accurate estimates, not $1000 quick fix jobs that turned into $10,000 resurrections the day they arrived). Even exhaust can give clues: is the tip of the pipe bent down? Are the rubber donut hangars stretched forward?
One thing that I've learned from dealing with insurance carriers for so long is that the squeaky wheel gets the grease. If they're blowing you off, or not satisfying you, raise hell and ask for a supervisor. You've done literally nothing wrong here and are either being made whole again by the people who represent the person that did do something wrong (Prog), or the people you pay to look after you in instances precisely like this one (USAA). Accept nothing less than exemplary service.
@ttyymmnn Hope Mrs. Ttyymmnn is doing OK.
I spent 23 years running collision repair shops (until this summer when I finally had enough dealing with insurance companies), I'll try to provide a bit of insight.
Bruce is correct, but sucks at analogies. Going to the doctor with a hurt arm and needing an XRay to see if it's broken is a better representation he should've presented you with: the shop can't tell the extent of the damage until the rear undershield and bumper cover are removed, and sometimes once you've done that, you can't put the car back together again. Most shops can't tear down a car at time of estimate due to labor and concerns of the car immediately being rendered non-drivable because they can't put it back together again with the damaged components. Insurance companies don't like this, because it drives the rental expense up. They'll tell you they're there to take care of you, but quite frankly, they just want to mitigate their expenses and don't care much about anything after that.
Behind the rear bumper cover is an energy absorber (#7), an aluminum reinforcement (#5), a pair of reinforcement mounting "caps" that usually weld onto the rear body panel where it attaches to the rear frame rails (#s 6 and 8), the rear body panel itself, the floor, and the rear rails. It's not uncommon for all of the aforementioned components to require repair or replacement in a decent rear end collision.
Re: diminished value, I'm pretty sure you'll have to go after Progressive for a DV claim. In Virginia, you're not allowed to go after your own carrier for DV.
Let me know if there's anything that doesn't make sense/sound right, etc. Insurance policies have turned collision repair into a convoluted shitshow, so Bruce is probably trying to do the best he can while serving three to four masters.
@essextee I thought the USB C port on my Pixel 3 was dead a few months ago. Cable wouldn't seat firmly into the port and wiggled.
30 seconds with a flashlight and a plastic toothpick and I'd dug an impressive amount of lint out of the port that had been continually packed down every time the cable was plugged in, eventually causing the cable to no longer connect.
I say this 100% biased to downhill MTB, so take it with a grain of salt:
The Spur will feel 100% more composed pointed downhill with a longer wheelbase, reach and slacker head angle, without a doubt. As for the weight difference, I honestly think it'll be much easier, healthier, safer, and a hell of a lot more fun to get used to carrying a paltry 4 lbs more up the climbs than descending tech on a twitchy XC bike. I'd rather have a bike that makes the fun part even more fun than a bike that makes the shitty part a bit less shitty. This line of thinking has also proceeded to take me from trail bike, to enduro bike, to full blown DH rig in the last three years: wallet be warned.
As for the fork, I prefer Fox over RockShox stuff, but they both make good products. Regarding color, there's unexplored options yet (custom stickers for the lowers to color match the frame):