It’s a good look, IMO. I need to get wheels and tires ordered so I don’t destroy the Blizzaks with the rising temps. I’d rather not put the stockers back on.
Took me well over a year to convince myself to let it go but today the WRX has made way for a
mini slightly-less-enormous truck. That being this 2020 Ranger XLT 302A package, which is a reasonably well equipped middle trim package (auto climate, power/heated seats, remote start).
I know I will miss the Subaru - the driving dynamics are what made me so reluctant to trade it in; I’ll likely have to own another WRX or STI at some point. If I wanted one car to do everything, being fun, practical and winter capable, I wouldn’t consider anything else. Luckily, I’m now in a position to own multiple vehicles so I decided to broaden the range.
This will make MTB transport significantly easier and means I can actually transport Kayaks with my own vehicle again. It will also be an even more excellent winter vehicle once I get some appropriate tires on it. Ground clearance should be less of an issue, which is nice.
Naturally, I already know of a few things I want to do beyond wheels (the stock offset is bad and Ford should feel bad) and tires. Fox suspension and an LSD are top of the list but I’ll give the wallet a bit of a breather first.
This thing is pretty zippy for a truck, we’ll have to see how much eco I’ll be able to get with the boost.
I’m a bit late with taking the pictures but it only took me 2 weeks to ditch the stock wheels for these Black Rhino Stadiums with slightly upsized (265/70R17 vs 255/65R17) Blizzaks. No surprise that the snow traction is fantastic, a bit less so on ice than the Michelin x-ices I’ve run on previous cars but I’m happy so far.
The wheels have a +30 offset, which moves everything out by a much needed 25mm.
Black isn’t my preferred colour for wheels but they weren’t available in the optional bronze in this fitment. I had a hard time finding wheels in the Ranger fitment, doubly so finding them without gaudy designs and/or fake beadlock style rings/pointless bolts. I may have them powdercoated bronze at some point but I like the wheel design a lot otherwise.
The wheel wells are filled out a bit better but I’d still like to drop the back ~2”. Unfortunately the rear suspension design is prohibitive to doing so - a lowering shackle isn’t possible so it would require a flip kit to put the springs under the axle instead of above. Apparently Belltech is working on exactly that, so perhaps it’ll happen.
Winter has mostly buggered off, finally, so the Blizzaks are off and new rolling stock has been fitted. KMC KM719 in 17x8 with a +35 offset pushes the wheels out a much needed 20mm over stock and the much meatier tires finish filling the cavernous wheel wells.
The tires are Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws that seem to be the new hotness for AT tires. They seem fine so far; I’m not an off-roader but grip seems good and they’re not loud.
Size is nominally the same 265/70R17 as the winters but they’re definitely a good bit wider at the tread with the chunkier shoulders as they rub at full lock. This is not acceptable for my use of the truck. I don’t plan to lift it but I should be able to loosen and move the crash bars to get that little bit of extra clearance, hopefully.
Somewhat annoyingly, there’s 15cm of snow in the forecast for Thursday, so I guess I’ll find out how the winter traction is on the Falkens.
[I made this little guide several years ago on legacyOppo and had to fetch it from the jimisaherb.com archive in light of @Highlander’s car having finally giving him the same issue. With KinjOppo’s demise, I don’t think the bookmark works anymore.
I can’t seem to link it directly so I’m reposting it here.]
On a friday night over  years ago my brother was driving home and something began rattling around in the rear suspension of our 2004 Mazda. Upon inspection at a gas station, the problem was easily spotted, the mounting tabs on either side of the upper shock mount had broken off around their bolts. Fun times.
Here are some step by step instructions to fixing this issue:
Go for a test drive and enjoy a job well done.
@snakesm13 Yes. I ordered a poutine from what had in the past been a decent restaurant/bar and got home to find they’d completely forgotten the gravy. Reasonably chunky, crispy but not crunchy fries with good, squeaky cheese curds left absolutely bone dry by the lack of gravy. Pretty sure I nearly had an aneurism.
@tripper it’s an ‘09 128i, the chassis is directly related to the e90 (I could bolt all of the e90 M3 suspension on, which is what BMW did when they built the 1M) so it falls into that camp. The battery in my car has been changed, apparently to a good one. It has now started the car first crank 3 times after 4 month winter hibernations.
I didn’t know a dying battery could have that effect though so thanks for the tip, I’ll probably start breaking out the multimeter and checking it every once in a while.
@houstonrunner my BMW doesn’t have a temperature gauge (ignorance is bliss, apparently) so I neurotically check the oil level every time I drive it. Also, I don’t have a dipstick because BMW, in their infinite stupidity, decided that an oil level sensor is a better idea. So I check the oil level through the on board computer not knowing if and when the sensor will shit the bed. It could literally explode at any moment; what a fun way to keep life interesting.
Good thing I’m not overly prone to anxiety because I’d probably only ever be able to own a Corolla if I was.
@musashi66 You’ll want them to drop the headliner to clean up any remaining glass. The rear window in my WRX got smashed and I heard the odd piece rattle around in the C-pillar every once in a while for the rest of my ownership. Very annoying. They’ll probably need to drop the headliner to put the glass in the mechanism anyway so that’ll be to your benefit. Hopefully it isn’t as pricey as my rear window was ($1k, loonies) and it can be brought in quickly.
@dawrx I bought a 60”(iirc) tv last year and nearly couldn’t get it in the trunk of my WRX. The trunk is massive but the depth of the box and angle to get it onto the folded back seat meant the opening was juuust a touch narrow. Subaru needs to bring back the hatch, I’d buy one almost immediately.
@shoop My adjustment was done by adjusting the struts rather than camber bolts but my WRX had -1.5 degrees of camber up front for nearly 4 years of ownership and the front tire wear didn't suffer at all. As long as you zero your toe angle the camber wear at this sort of setting is negligible/not noticeable.
many steps later
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