Good news! Great news even!

[DSM_OR_DIE]

That Toyota transmission part that is long discontinued and has been unobtainable for a few years? MonkeyWrenchRacing just happens to have one "set aside" and will trade me for the used final drive coming out of my transmission, assuming it's in good enough shape. Sign me up!

Incredibly comfy kitty for your time!

[KITT222]

@DSM_OR_DIE We may need to talk transmissions. Are you putting a 3.90 in a C60? That's about what I'd ideally like to put in my Vibe.

[DSM_OR_DIE]

@KITT222 I am indeed! I'd love to talk because I haven't actually driven a 2ZZ yet, let alone a forced induction one, so my plans are based off of my experience with other cars and lowly internet drivel.

Edit: I guess I did DD an Elise SC for a week back in high school but I only remember the chassis, not the engine.

[KITT222]

@DSM_OR_DIE Very nice! A buddy of mine who is way more acquainted with these platforms might be there to talk shop. I'd ideally like I think a C66 that's still 3.90, but different ratios. That's better for the 1ZZ's redline. I'm a little curious about changing the final drive since the stockie final drive is pretty good for keeping the 2ZZ in its second cam profile (AKA lift), but boost should help that.

[Chariotoflove]

@DSM_OR_DIE
I love it when an unexpected deal comes along.

[DSM_OR_DIE]

@KITT222 I didn't realize how different your C59 is from my C56.

The C66's ratios are pretty weird, having a wider spread at the low end and then 5th and 6th being really close. Relative to the C56 and C60 that looks REALLY stupid. But comparing it to the C59 it's actually not all that odd, and it would definitely be an improvement. You might be the perfect customer for a stock C66! The MPH figures are for 6800RPM, what I believe to be the Matrix redline.

I wanted closer 1-4th gears and then a wildly distant 6th, and the C60 gets me that. But I'm paying a lot to modify a C60 3.9, whereas you can just buy a C66 with LSD from MWR if you want. Sounds like a good deal to me.

[KITT222]

@DSM_OR_DIE Note: I do not have a C59. I have whatever the 4-spd auto is. I wanted the 6-speed with 5 speed C59 ratios +1. So I think even a C59 (with an LSD please and thank you) would be a big improvement!

[Exage03040]

@KITT222

If you're running boost then lift actually doesn't do much. You certainly don't feel the change as you do N/A.

I think only T0ast and I have 2ZZ-GE. He has the Elise and I have a 05 C-XRS.

Most of my dabbles about 2ZZ mods were a decade ago, I'm familiar with MWR but didn't proceed to do anything for the engine other than an Injen CAI.

DD Performance Research did say on a board that the 2ZZ is more reliable than the 1ZZ for boost but honestly not by much I would imagine (His 2ZZ-GE intake manifolds were hot shit back in the day for the NA guys). You're just running lower boost pressures due to the higher compression ratio although the rods are probably better and I'd imagine the MMC cylinder wall lining may hold up better for the piston rings. If you were cracking the engines open it's a toss up, may be better with the 2ZZ and lower compression rods but work is work.

As much as I like the 2ZZ it was stomped by the Honda K-Series [K20 and later K24] when it came to basically everything (upgrades, tuning, boost) simply with the support and potential.

Weak spots of the 2ZZ will be the oil pump (upgrade pump and run good synthetic oil if doing high rpm) and the oil pick-up/oil pan (oil starvation from cornering, you'll want the baffle pan). Loss of oil pressure kills the engine very fast.
Depending on the year of your 2ZZ-GE they had failure of the lift bolts on early engines (I believe it was 2000-2003.5, they had it sorted by 2004 from what I remember).
Also the factory accessory belt tensioner is garbage (mine still is and I stripped the false nut, On the Corolla I also have to drill through the fender or jack the engine up to remove the bolt to remove and replace the stupid thing so I'm not bothering unless I'm taking it in).
Oh yeah, it has no tolerance for a money shift.

I don't remember reading how much power you're planning.
I remember most people warning that the C60 gave up the ghost after 300hp, it's typically 3rd and 4th Gear shaft goes sayonara when you put any more than that through it (I've see MWR put a 250-350hp range on it, so it depends on how much time it sees there on power). I think the C56 and C59 may also have this problem but I know the C60 does for sure.
Synchros on the C60 are weak. They go bad quick with bang shifting and the transmission is notchy from the get go. Specifically GL-4 75W90 is recommended and not the GL-5, Usually Redline MT-90 was the preferred fill, I might swap to the Amsoil GL-4 just because I'll have engine oil coming and I get annoyed sourcing the redline.

[DSM_OR_DIE]

@Exage03040 said in Good news! Great news even!:

Synchros on the C60 are weak. They go bad quick with bang shifting and the transmission is notchy from the get go.

MWR asked if I wanted to do the synchros while they're rebuilding my used C60 and I haven't responded. It sounds like you're saying I should do it regardless.

[Exage03040]

@DSM_OR_DIE

Very strongly recommend if you can budget it!

[KITT222]

@Exage03040 One friend had a turbo 1ZZ and the other a turbo 2ZZ. Both had the same power figures on unopened engines because the 1ZZ's lower compression ratio let him run more boost. But if you're opening it up, the 2ZZ has a lot more parts available. But really, do a K-swap. It's more economical.

For the belt tensioner, you can replace just the damper. That's what I did on my 1ZZ. I didn't even want to try with the bolt.

I personally would love to simply start with aftermarket engine management and a flex sensor on my supercharged 1ZZ. Getting a solid 200hp would be fine. I don't imagine I'd run anything hard enough to cause drivetrain problems. But I'm aware of the C60 synchro issues. Another friend's Vibe GT rally car grinds into 3rd, IIRC.

[Exage03040]

@KITT222

Apologies, story was more directed to DSM.

False nut is stripped on the tensioner from the last time I put on a belt. I build up some JB and was filing down to hex but at this point I'd probably just spring for a new unit.

Car's admittedly pretty beat in some areas and I have a list of stuff I don't feel like doing at the street side with just stands. Clutch being the main one in particular, then just scope creep.