Road bike I am considering
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I am looking to do a bit of bike commuting to work since I live nearby and some of the places I am looking to move to are even closer by. Currently I have a gigantic hill to get to home so I hadnt really been motivated to shop for a bike but the new lodging search has spurred me to look more intently. Anyways, I checked out this bike yesterday listed on Craigslist for $300. It is a Schwinn Fastback (2013) that is a 20 speed with an xl frame which seems perfect for my uses. New brake pads, new chain, upgraded pedals, new high-end continental tires, and a carbon fork. I rode it a bit and everything seems to be functional but seller was unwilling to budge from $300 so I walked for the day. Come today, he is offering it for $280.The only problem I found with it is that there seemed to be three speeds on the front shifter while there are clearly only two cogs there to shift between. I discovered this by shifting into a non-existent gear but every gear worked perfectly otherwise. It seems to me that the wrong derailleur was fitted at some point although the seller does not know since he didnt do it, claims its never been an issue. Anyways, looking for some input by anyone familiar with road bikes if its a good choice/price for my application. I would probably just ride it around the neighborhood and once or twice a week do the flat ~8 mile each way commute.
I was mad about the non-negotiating but it really did seem like a nice bike to me. Will be WAY better than riding my mountain bike when I am not on a trail. Big hills are still nicer with disc brakes I imagine but with new pads like this and no rain, it will be fine. And the one issue I found, I figure I can replace the part if it really bothers me.
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@wrong-wheel-drive
I'm not a fan of Schwinn bikes, they can vary from ok to crap.What component set is on this bike? What model? I've seen s0me very nice older road bikes on FB and CL around this range that I would jump at if I needed another bike, so it may be advantageous to keep looking. Road bikes don't take the beating that a MTB does, so an quality older bike in good shape will still perform.
My road bike is about 30 years old (vintage, I guess), but it was top-of-the-line back in the day, and it still rides flawlessly. Granted, I'm not putting many miles on it, but quality lasts.
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1.) I would go flatbar and get hydraulic brakes. I've been commuting via cyclecross on and off for the past 5-6 years, and I miss flatbar stability and hydraulic brake dependability. I currently use TRP mechanical disks with swiss stop pads and top of the line shimano rotors - a good setup as far as cables go, but not anywhere close to a cheap hydro setup.
2.) The more road focused the frame, the less comfortable the riding position. Also, tire clearance issues should you want to go road bike plus (27.5 rims with 40-50c tires) or gravel.
3.) It's called 10 speed. Don't use the front rings times rear cassette as it can mislead what hardware you're using when looking for replacement parts (cassette speed will indicate chain types).
Happy Hunting! I'm excited for the weather to improve and get out again.
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@wrong-wheel-drive said in Road bike I am considering:
ot on a trail. Big hills are still nicer with disc brakes I imagine but with new pads like this and no rain, it will be fine. And the one issue I found, I figure I can replace the part if it r
How far is your commute? Are you sure you want to commute on a road bike? Why not a euro-style, city bike like this:
More comfortable frame, better visibility (for safety), fenders for inclement weather, rack for storage. Add a chain guard and you would be good to go!
I commuted via bike for a decade; I started out on a road bike, but was much happier when I switched to the city bike. My commute was fairly short though, less than 4 miles.
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@wrong-wheel-drive looks like the Shimano Sora group which is cheap but sound. The front derailleur will be 3x as standard but can be locked to 2x by setting the higher and lower limit screws to control the arc of the derailleur.
Seems like fair coin to me as long as the hubs are in good condition, rims are straight and there's no play in the bottom bracket. Also measure the chain...if it is more than 0.5" per link then it's dead and could be a factor in your negotiation.
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@someoneatacura said in Road bike I am considering:
1.) I would go flatbar and get hydraulic brakes. I've been commuting via cyclecross on and off for the past 5-6 years, and I miss flatbar stability and hydraulic brake dependability. I currently use TRP mechanical disks with swiss stop pads and top of the line shimano rotors - a good setup as far as cables go, but not anywhere close to a cheap hydro setup.
2.) The more road focused the frame, the less comfortable the riding position. Also, tire clearance issues should you want to go road bike plus (27.5 rims with 40-50c tires) or gravel.
3.) It's called 10 speed. Don't use the front rings times rear cassette as it can mislead what hardware you're using when looking for replacement parts (cassette speed will indicate chain types).
Happy Hunting! I'm excited for the weather to improve and get out again.
Yeah I am really bad at terminology and have always just used the total gears since I dont know any better. Thats good to note for parts and such. I know I just want cheap as my only requirement. I have been more than happy with my cheap MTB but since I will not be riding this one nearly as much (unless I learn that I love it) id like to start out as cheap as possible. I am worried about some of the really vintage ones Ive seen listed as they seem heavy and nowhere near as nice as this one at least. My budget is definitely $300 or less so its a bit more limiting.
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@silentbutnotreallydeadly said in Road bike I am considering:
@wrong-wheel-drive looks like the Shimano Sora group which is cheap but sound. The front derailleur will be 3x as standard but can be locked to 2x by setting the higher and lower limit screws to control the arc of the derailleur.
Seems like fair coin to me as long as the hubs are in good condition, rims are straight and there's no play in the bottom bracket. Also measure the chain...if it is more than 0.5" per link then it's dead and could be a factor in your negotiation.
Yeah its Sora group which I understand as being cheap for sure. But that is good to know that it is 3x standard, that is the real information I needed! It was just a major red flag to me seeing a mismatch like that with no history as to why. It was like seeing different color panels on a car to me. But yeah if its not an issue I like it a lot more then.
And the chain is brand new but I will check it out a little closer before buying if I do decide to look at it again. Its way nicer than my MTB in terms of condition so it was just like wow this thing looks brand new. I will definitely have to inspect bottom bracket though as im pretty sure ive got that problem on my MTB.
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@futurendowner said in Road bike I am considering:
@wrong-wheel-drive said in Road bike I am considering:
ot on a trail. Big hills are still nicer with disc brakes I imagine but with new pads like this and no rain, it will be fine. And the one issue I found, I figure I can replace the part if it r
How far is your commute? Are you sure you want to commute on a road bike? Why not a euro-style, city bike like this:
More comfortable frame, better visibility (for safety), fenders for inclement weather, rack for storage. Add a chain guard and you would be good to go!
I commuted via bike for a decade; I started out on a road bike, but was much happier when I switched to the city bike. My commute was fairly short though, less than 4 miles.
My problem with a city bike is that they are heavy. I am probably better off getting an extra set of wheels with road tires for my MTB at that point. I will be living the two bike lifestyle (which I assume is only a slippery slope to having 20+ of them) so I want them to be as different as possible. The canyons in Malibu might be fun to ride as well so I kind of want the option to try that out some time. Ive enjoyed a couple of them on my MTB so I bet its way more fun on a real road bike. If I really got into that, I would probably upgrade but using it to commute justifies buying it beyond just a toy. Gas savings should pay for itself over time as long I dont go through tires too fast. Its about 8 miles each way for a nice 40 minute ride. Ive been working from home a lot lately because of cases but ill eventually be back more often again.
And at work I can easily bring a road bike in and put it in my cube so I dont have to worry about it disappearing.
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@wrong-wheel-drive given it appears to be an FSA crankset with a sealed bearing BB then it might be worth pulling one of the crank bolts to check whether it's a square taper sealed bearing BB or one of the more esoteric sealed bearing BBs with a bespoke spindle like Octalink. It's most likely to be square taper but you never know.
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@wrong-wheel-drive If you like it, buy it. $300 seems about bottom dollar for a bike (for reference it costs me around $200 to buy and fix up my hooptie bikes). As SilentbutnotreallyDeadly pointed out, def make sure the wheels/rims are true and the hubs feel nice. Chain could be a factor, but they're also cheap and easy to replace. If you decide to go flatbar later those are also pretty easy to change out, but I actually don't mind the drop bars on hooptie bike #3 anymore.
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@akioohtori said in Road bike I am considering:
flatbar
Yeah ive never used this road bike style of handle bar before so I was concerned about it but its good to know changing it wouldnt be so bad. I figured I would just try to get use to it and change if necessary. I am thinking it seems like a fair price but knowing nothing, I definitely needed some sanity check.
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@wrong-wheel-drive seems like a good price. My only concern is that it's too big, I'm 6'4" and ride an XL, that bike is designed for someone way taller than 6'. There is nothing worse than having an ill fitting bike and that starts with getting the correct frame size.
Here is a good online calculator.
https://zinncycles.com/road-fit-calculator/ -
You either Schwinn or loose! (sorry. old joke from Paramount days
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@wrong-wheel-drive Front shifter, if Shimano, probably has a trim tab third detent so you can trim out the derailleur a bit.
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@wrong-wheel-drive For $300, I think you can do better (though COVID has moved used bike prices all over the map). Schwinn strikes me as brand living off their (distant) past, mostly what you'd find in big box stores or on Amazon. I think the Fastback is one of their higher-end models though? Doesn't sound like the components are high-end, but they are probably good enough to be serviceable at least. Beyond that, unless you have a long commute, road bikes are rarely the best choice for a commuter. I guess in Southern California you aren't riding in the wet, so you don't need to hold out for disk brakes or fender compatibility, but you might still do better with a hybrid of some sort for wider tires, a more comfortable riding position, easier storage, and maybe some suspension.
Also that's a big looking frame, so make sure you fit.
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@wrong-wheel-drive said in Road bike I am considering:
@akioohtori said in Road bike I am considering:
flatbar
Yeah ive never used this road bike style of handle bar before so I was concerned about it but its good to know changing it wouldnt be so bad. I figured I would just try to get use to it and change if necessary. I am thinking it seems like a fair price but knowing nothing, I definitely needed some sanity check.
It’s harder than you think. To go flat requires a new stem, new brake levers, new brake calipers (or a set of problem solver adapters), and new shifters. The bar diameters are different and flat bar levers typically have a different pull ratio than road levers. The brake/shifters on the road bike are called brifters. You’ll have to get separate shifters for a flat bar. It can be done, but it will likely be expensive.
While Schwinn bikes used to be special, they have fallen to department store offerings. This one looks like a high-end department store bike or a low end bike shop offering. My concerns about that bike as a commuter are the lack of space for fenders, the lack of eyelets for a rack or fenders, and the lack of space for larger tires. Racing style bikes, even low-end ones like this, really don’t make good commuters. I almost always chose to commute on mountain bikes with slicks, despite having a cannondale with a carbon fork in my stable.
Never discount the possibility that you might live through it.
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@Wrong-Wheel-Drive Ok scratch what I said and listen to @bicyclebuck. Of all the bike nutters on Oppo he has steered me the most right by far.
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@akioohtori said in Road bike I am considering:
@Wrong-Wheel-Drive Ok scratch what I said and listen to @bicyclebuck. Of all the bike nutters on Oppo he has steered me the most right by far.
Yeah makes sense, I would be essentially stuck as is with the bars as I wouldnt want to heavily modify like that. I should read into what the advantages/disadvantages of this setup would be. I'm not so concerned about the commuter comfort and it felt like a good size for me, not a whole lot different than my MTB anyways. I'd lower the seat a little bit but I believe it is actually a L size, not XL. I've just gotta really think about road bike being a commuter which I hadnt put much thought into before.
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@bicyclebuck I wonder if the unique scenario of "it NEVER rains here" plays into why I wouldnt want to bother with needing a bike with fenders or storage. Yeah I would want to make sure I dont transport my laptop back and forth on a day where I want to bike. Would you be saying that a Euro style city bike is better or just more so that using my MTB with different tires is ideal?
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@wrong-wheel-drive I commuted on my road bike in northern california for 15 years, worked great. I had a ride that was mostly nicely paved bike paths. If it was more urban or involved dirt roads I'd want something a little more burley.
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@wrong-wheel-drive said in Road bike I am considering:
Would you be saying that a Euro style city bike is better or just more so that using my MTB with different tires is ideal?
It really depends on your specific situation. As you say, you don't get rain so no need for fenders. Rack mounts are still going to be useful if your commute is long enough and you ride hard enough to want to carry a change of clothes.
Drop bars are fine for commuting. It all depends on what you're comfortable with. This was my dedicated commuter. Extreme fenders and lights. This setup was seriously heavy but didn't matter for 12 miles and I used the extra weight as training. I just noticed that it has a triple crank for some reason which wasn't needed for Milwaukee.
I carried one or two panniers as needed. You can carry your laptop in a backpack which would provide cushioning from the road.
It sounds like your MTB with different wheelset or tires could work for you. I ran slicks since this was a dedicated commuter.
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Welded frame with a basic but still Shimano group, decent wheels, carbon fork everything in working order. For $280 it's not a terrible deal. What everyone says about Schwinn's glory days being firmly in the past is true, but that doesn't mean this frame isn't perfectly serviceable. The derailleur can be set for two chainrings. If the frame fits your leg and body dimensions, and you don't usually find one like that, probably get it. Bike fit is one of the biggest things. Is the saddle comfortable enough? Looks like it's set up for enough of an upright position so a commute will be comfortable enough. If you have any lingering doubts about anything on it, your local bike shop will probably take a look for you. Otherwise, don't be afraid of this for a commuter.
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@wrong-wheel-drive said in Road bike I am considering:
@bicyclebuck I wonder if the unique scenario of "it NEVER rains here" plays into why I wouldnt want to bother with needing a bike with fenders or storage. Yeah I would want to make sure I dont transport my laptop back and forth on a day where I want to bike. Would you be saying that a Euro style city bike is better or just more so that using my MTB with different tires is ideal?
Good questions. I only had space for one bike in college, so I chose a MTB with two wheel sets so I could have street slicks during the week and knob bikes on the weekend trail rides. I also had fenders I could quickly remove. Why bother with fenders at all? There was the occasional rainstorm, but I usually had to deal with water on the road from everyone’s terrible sprinkler installations. I never thought of them as an issue, but soon realized that a sprinkler spraying on the road or water coming off a lawn for half an hour can create some very large puddles. Wet roads meant wet/dirty clothes which I ended up wearing all day.
I’ve never been a fan of city bikes. I like to ride fast and the upright position isn’t conducive to getting aero. I kept a pretty aggressive forward position, even on my mountain bike. After years of riding a MTB with slicks, I tried switching to my road bike. It didn’t work out. I ended up building up a cheap MTB with no suspension, slicks, and fenders. It was the perfect compromise for the roads I was riding.
My current road bike is a different compromise with a cyclocross frame, bar-end shifters, moustache bars, fat tires, and fenders. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it as a commuter.
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@highlander said in Road bike I am considering:
@wrong-wheel-drive I commuted on my road bike in northern california for 15 years, worked great. I had a ride that was mostly nicely paved bike paths. If it was more urban or involved dirt roads I'd want something a little more burley.
Theres a couple of train track crossings on the route from one of the places Im looking at but otherwise its smooth pavement the whole way. Im more worried about being run over but thats because California drivers can find a way to even get through a jersey barrier I imagine! Im driving the route to that place today though so I will make sure to take a look at the pavement as well.
'01 Mazda Miata, '06 Subaru STi, '22 Salsa Timberjack, '17 Schwinn Fastback
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@wrong-wheel-drive Yeah if the pavement is slick you'll be fine. It'll be less comfy than a flat bar city bike or mtb, but way way faster most likely, so if you like the fit I'd say it's a decent option. For railroad tracks, do you have a way to cross them perpendicularly? That's pretty important with any bike other than something on 2.5" or wider tires.
