I fixed the longboi! Thank you, Oppo.
I had posted the other day that the interior lights and tail lights stopped working. The 15A TAIL fuse kept blowing. So I did my usual, "Oh God, why" post as a thinly veiled disguise to plead for help.
In following @MM54's counseling, I removed the tail light relay to see if the fuse would still blow. It in fact did not! So we found the part of the circuit where things are going wrong. Somewhere between the relay and the back of the truck was a problem.
I get under and check everything I see. I remove the damage rear marker light wires from their sockets. But then, THEN, I notice something...
See this thingie? I believe it's the thingie you click in when you're pulling a trailer so something for running and braking lights? Anyway, I am not interested in pulling anything with this boi.
Notice that the photo above is after I had moved it. What do I mean? That top "fitting" is actually metal! The entire piece was spun the opposite direction tangled in the other wires, pinning that bare metal directly against the sheet metal. I still don't know anything about electricity or circuits, but I assume this is not ideal. I assume with how much this truck shakes, or me hitting some large bump, shook this to where it ought not to be.
So after all that, I put the relay back and yet another fuse, annnnnd...
Yes! I then went on a long test drive to make sure I wasn't being fooled again.
I hope this is the end of my new 2020 misadventures. This year the longboi has had a failed rheostat, coolant leak, and a bad ground. All very simple stuff -- except when owned by someone who is not mechanically inclined (me!).
So thank you, Oppo, for saving me, yet again.
Qaaaaa last edited by
@dr-zoidberg The "exposed metal" thingie is actually the ground. Therefore, if it touches the chassis, it's supposed to be ground to ground.
Granted, that doesn't exclude there being somethingsfucky.gif with the trailer connector in general. A past issue with a trailer wiring pigtail is responsible for my Benz having damage in its lighting control module, which I had to repair, and which now causes a bulb-out warning when my headlights are on because the balance resistances don't match right anymore. WHEEE
@ramblinrover I'm extremely confused. Are you saying it's... Supposed... to be metal to metal...?
@dr-zoidberg It's supposed to be able to be, if it happens by accident.
It's standard preventing-latent-error sort of design. "These are the hot wires that must be protected from shorting" vs. "here is the wire which is part of the connector and makes it impossible to put two male connectors together, and impossible to put the connector together backwards".
The trailer ground cannot be allowed to be plugged into one of the leads with power coming from the vehicle. Making that wire very obviously different even makes wiring it up less likely to get screwed up.
...and when the connector isn't 100% shielded, if it touches a wet trailer while you're hooking it up, it doesn't matter if the exposed pin is the ground pin.
With the trailer side, there are three exposed pins, not one, BUT: unless the trailer has backup power, those pins are not going to have any power on them when they touch the frame/etc.
It's like a dryer cord connection. Modern cord, the ground is at the top, and there's a neutral.
If the cord gets pulled out the wall partway and... I dunno, a curtain rod touches the wires, it is likeliest to hit the ground at the top first even if it hits the other wires.
Also, the ground is longer so that it makes contact first, so if there's something wacky with the dryer, it will ground out before the lines are loaded.
Also, the ground being a round pin and distinct from the others is helpful visually and mechanically.
Long story short, an unbelievable amount of thought goes into this stuff.
AkioOhtori last edited by AkioOhtori
@dr-zoidberg Nah he is saying the bare metal pin
isshould be ground, which means it is OK for it to touch the chassis as that is also ground. Or should be anyway. When a car gets up in years, who can say anymore! If removing it fixed the problem and you're never going to tow, then I'd call it a win and move on.
EDIT: RamblinRover's answer was WAY more complete than mine haha
@ramblinrover Wow, me am learning!
I guess that's just one more "future" on the longboi that's supposed be one way, but isn't.
|EDIT: RamblinRover's answer was WAY more complete than mine haha
My parents be like "why are you like this"
RacinBob last edited by RacinBob
I think you are in the correct neighborhood but haven't identified the cause. Rover is correct in that the exposed pin is a ground and when correctly wired should not cause a short circuit when touched to metal. Now I suppose there could be a short in that trailer wiring harness and that the pin is hot. So grounding it would cause a short. Or the harness may be rubbed through somewhere and that is causing a short and when you moved it you removed the place where the short might have been happening to touch ground. So it is fixed without knowing why....
Regardless, I had a similar short in my harness and when it shorted the tail lights and interior lights stopped working. So very likely you are in the neighborhood.
I suggest inspecting that ribbon cable harness for damage all the way back to where it splices into the car wiring. I expect that when you do you will find somewhere where the insulation is damaged or the electrical tape has fallen off and there will be the cause.
@racinbob I admit I'm probably going to just keep driving as is as long as I'm not popping fuses. I actually bought a used rheostat on eBay so if/when I actually get around to fixing things on this thing, I'll just start digging while I'm under the dash again. I don't think anyone will judge me too harshly if I wait for warmer weather...
Just Jeepin' last edited by
Probably should regularly check your tail/brake lights...
Cash Rewards last edited by
@dr-zoidberg I had similar fuckery in my tundra, which is old but nowhere near as old as yours. Taillight was replaced with non-oem Rock Auto variety. Soon my abs light on the dash was on. Eventually had to result to a dealership visit, and they slapped a oem taillight in, and voila. Why? Who fucking knows
jminer last edited by
@Dr-Zoidberg Nicely done - I have definitely seen trailer hitch wiring wired for whatever backwards way a person wired a trailer so it is very possible that pin which is supposed to be ground is hot. Nice working finding something and enjoy the old truck some more!
@just-jeepin I do?
MM54 last edited by
Nice! Glad you got it sorted out (instead of shorted out). As others have mentioned, that exposed pin on the trailer connector shouldn't mind being grounded, but it's entirely possible it's wired wrong and is shorting things out. If the issue comes back, you'll at least know which part of the wiring to investigate, since moving that connector stopped the fault.
Shop-Teacher last edited by