Keep finding more broken stuff! (Golf update)
I picked up a customer on my way to the shop this morning, enjoying the extra power from the 11 mm pump and having properly good heat from the new, hotter thermostat from yesterday's update. He was not far out of my way to the shop and he's been a good customer and infact the car I serviced for him is one he bought from me.
But, as we arrived to the shop, surprise! The passenger front interior door handle doesn't open the door. So, I got to play chauffer and open it for him from the outside. Later in the day, after done with customer work, I removed the door panel on that side and just found the cable wasn't hooked up. Easy fix. The door panel turns out wasn't properly installed anyway and missing a couple screws. Installing it properly improved a rattle I had been hearing at certain speeds and RPMs.
I also couldn't resist adding yet more power! Dug out my old Flashzilla, formatted it for the car, downloaded the original file and sent it to Malone tuning to get a few more ponies.
Couldn't resist a quick test drive before closing up shop and leaving for the day... and uhhhh.... the clutch slipped... in only 3rd gear. So yeah, you could say there's a very noticeable bump in power! As I may have mentioned previously, I had been hearing faint dual mass flywheel rumbles, so I was already mentally preparing myself for having to do a clutch anyway. And again, since I've done the job so many times on mk4 5 speeds, I could practically do one blindfolded. Really not a bad job at all. I literally bench press the 95 lb adorable little 5 speed in and out of the car. Goes faster that way!
The other tiny thing I did is an old time TDIClub trick. First, notice inside the fuel filler the little button/lever at about 8 o'clock? That's what we're working on.
That is something you can manually press to help vent an air pocket from the top of the tank. What I'm doing is removing the valve to remove the lever, reinstall the valve and this way when I fill the tank, it vents full time without me having to press the lever anymore.
Diesel being a fuel OIL instead of a volatile compound that emits highly flammable vapors, you don't worry too much about such tricks. There are no evaporative emissions components on diesels. No charcoal canister, no leak detection pump, no purge valve, nothing.
Here's the valve removed. You can see the black lever I'm referring to.
Lever and spring removed, ready to reinstall the valve body sans lever.
Now, next time I go to fill up the car, it will automatically vent the air from the top of the tank, allowing me to cram it more full of fuel. I will also continue filling it until I see clear liquid fuel near the top of the filler, once again ignoring the gas engine conventional wisdom to not top off. I cram every last ounce I can in.
When I do so, when the fuel light on one of these comes on, I can fit 15.5 or more gallons in the tank. In a car that can regularly get 42-45 MPG, that means I can do 650 miles or more between fill-ups.
You might also notice that the opening on these is quite wide. When these cars were new, diesel fill stations for cars were not near as common as they are now. There was a very real possibility you'd have to fill the car at a truck stop at some point, which means a massive nozzle with an insanely high flow rate. This opening is infact big enough to take those truck nozzles. Just don't rely on the auto shut-off. Don't ask how I know this... lol
Starting with the mk5 diesels, they no longer had such a large filler opening. Ajd as they got to the common rail engines and began having high pressure fuel pump failures, they installed a "misfueling guard" in a recall, which was also meant to make it difficult for a smaller gas nozzle to be fully inserted. If the nozzle isn't the exact right size, it doesn't press these rollers that releases a flap to allow full insertion. Really annoying.
But, not the case on these old cars! Pull up and fill next to a big rig if you want (or out of necessity as it might be some days).
Now to do something about the clutch... and maybe the occasionally difficult 3rd gear while the transmission is out.
66P1800inpieces last edited by
Man, and I was feeling good about changing out the power steering hoses in my Golf Mk4 GLS (AEG gas). The high pressure line was looking a little rusty, but not too bad. I really thought that would rust through at some point since it is right up front. However, the leak started from the low pressure line. Just a couple drops of fluid on the driveway. I figured if I was doing one I might as well do them both for piece of mind. I flushed the system and lines about 3 years ago so this time I just replaced the fluid that came out, a little less than a quart. I will have to post a pick of the return line. It started failing in a very peculiar way.
spacekraken last edited by spacekraken
"Keep finding more broken stuff! (Golf update)"
@dieseldub Pretty sure if you said "Golf update" the "keep finding more broken stuff" part is presumed
I kid, I kid this is awesome. What is it about diesel that makes topping off all the way up work alright? That's really cool that the system can hold that much fuel, modified and all.
Also 95lb 5 speed sounds really small haha! Must make transmission work a lot easier.
@spacekraken Not having any evaporative emissions devices to ruin makes it work OK. The only reason I top it off that extra bit is to cram as much extra in there as possible. Feels as though it's more accurate for fuel consumption calculations when I can consistently top it off, plus, it's fun to see how far you can go inbetween fill ups.
And you can judge how a tank is going when you do it every fill up, you recognize when the needle finally starts moving off the full mark (frequently 120-140 miles before it does so--LOL). Also making note of how many miles you have at half tank gives a good indicator of what kind of fuel economy you're getting (a really efficient drive will mean it indicates 400 miles at half tank--though when you top it off like this, keep in mind the second half of the tank goes a lot faster!).
I don't recall if Oregon has the vapor capture boots on their gas pumps or not (haven't driven a gas car in the state yet...). But if you ever wind up at a dual pump that has a gas nozzle and a diesel nozzle, you will notice that the diesel doesn't have the vapor capture boot.
A modern gas car has onboard vapor capture equipment, this includes a leak detection pump, a charcoal canister to capture and temporarily hold vapors plus a purge valve that occasionally is commanded to open to allow vapors to burp into the intake manifold where they will make their way into the engine to be combusted.
They tell you not to overfill a gas tank on gas powered cars because you can overwhelm the charcoal canister and ruin your evaporative emissions equipment.
A diesel has none of that. The fuel itself doesn't turn into a vapor at normal ambient temperatures, because it's an oil instead of a volatile compound. So, no LDP, no charcoal canister, no purge valve. Just a vent valve that circulates back up to the filler neck area. No worries about ruining any sensitive vapor capture equipment since there's no vapors to capture and no equipment to ruin.
@spacekraken The difference in classification of fuels is also why you're allowed to pump your own diesel in Oregon, but not gasoline
spacekraken last edited by
@dieseldub Oh cool, thanks for the explanation. Makes a lot of sense. Still jealous of that, it's always a random game of whether they actually pick the right grade and don't decide to top the car off three times here...