Toyota Coolant
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I'm going to swapping in new radiator hoses this weekend along with fresh coolant. I was going to just go with the Toyota brand super long life coolant from a dealer, but I've heard that the Zerex "Asian Vehicle" coolant is similar to the older Toyota "long life" coolant. Any insight on this? Should I just pony up and buy the Toyota branded stuff?
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After research I got the Zerex Asian for my 99 miata
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That's funny, I was just looking at this today. I'll have a better response after I get the kids to bed
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@dipodomysdeserti As I understand it its compatible, though its slightly different. Pink is a OAT, where ZEREX is a P-HOAT (phosphate - Hybrid Organic Acid Technology). I think the main difference is that this is a hybrid blend and not a full OAT, though there shouldn't be any reason you couldn't mix the 2. Even Toyota says its okay to mix red and pink even though one is an IAT (inorganic) and the other is an OAT...so they aren't too worried I guess (though I wouldn't).
Toyota Pink
Water (7732-18-5)
Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1)
Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6)
Sebacic Acid (111-20-6)
Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3)Zerex
Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1)
Water (7732-18-5)
Diethylene Glycol (111-46-6)
Sodium Benzoate (532-31-1)Personally, I stick with Toyota red in the cruiser and Toyota pink in the GX and my cooling systems are as healthy as can be, with good temps and good life.
With Pink especially I figure it's only 3-4 times during the life of a vehicle so what's a few extra bucks for the peace of mind?
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To follow up. Toyota long life coolant is "Toyota red" and supper long life coolant is "Toyota pink". Red is concentrate and pink is 50/50 but they are different outside that.
Though toyota says you can mix them, most say don't -
@hammerheadfistpunch Thanks! I found receipts for a radiator swap and coolant flush that the PO had done a year ago. It was done at a Toyota specialty shop, and listed the antifreeze used as “Toyota mix”, so I ended up just filling the radiator back up with Toyota pink.
Any thoughts on higher pressure rad caps on these V8’s? I swapped the hoses and cap because the hoses were pinching shut on long drives. The PO had a higher pressure cap on there so I swapped it back to a 0.9 bar one. No overheating issues even on 12-15 hour drives through mountains with the AC cranking, so I’m thinking it was just a sticky cap.
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@dipodomysdeserti I don't really get high pressure caps. The cooling system was designed to run at a given pressure and a higher cap just raises the boiling point past the point where engine damage is already going to happen. My 2 cents with toyota Truck cooling systems is keep the condenser clearer, keep the fluid fresh and replace the parts with OE. oh, and make sure all the gaps around the radiator are filled. I've found that Toyota systems work best when the pressure at the face of the radiator is greatest. if there are gaps around the sides, bottom or top of the radiator I close them with that RV seal foam. makes a big difference.
EDIT - with a .9 bar cap, the boiling point is 245-251, well beyond the thermal limits for engine safety. Whats the point of raising it even higher?
If I recall, the limit for the 1fz-fe is 105C before the AC turns off and enrichment begins. (221f) pretty sure the 2uz is around there too, I've seen as high as 217 (103 c) but the AC never kicked out. The UZ seems to like to run about 10 degrees hotter than the fz and from what I hear that's intentional for emissions. so long as you are saying below 105 c I think you have a good healthy cooling system.
