$20 Craftsman beam wrench. Most accurate torque wrench I have, if I can keep my eyes dead-on perpendicular to the face of the gauge while torquing. More accurate and easier/quicker to use than my HF clicker wrench. Goes up to 150 lb-ft, which is coincidentally exactly the torque spec for my Mustang's lug nuts.
(3/8" and 1/2" drive pictured)
I have ratchet adapters on the ends which make them far more useful than with just the fixed head that they come with.
@drVanTraveler@jayvincent Do you guys or anyone else know if there's a performance difference between the cheap knockoff catch cans and the 7x more expensive JLT version?
As long as the can seals well enough to hold vacuum and you have some sort of screen element to condense the oil vapors, the only difference with the higher cost custom kits are model-specific hardware rather than generic hoses and a choice of fittings.
@urambo-tauro Reasonable - I have a turnaround but don't use it, I live on a very residential street so I can just back out without issue (and if anyone is coming I can see them before I'm anywhere near the end of the driveway).
Rear ABS only uses a tone ring in the rear diff with a speed sensor on top of the diff. There's a module in the passenger kick panel IIRC. 4 wheel ABS has tone rings on the front hubs too. The only sign under the hood is if you have 4 wheel ABS is there is a hydraulic manifold/module next to the master cylinder IIRC. But you shouldn't as that was an option on 94(???) up - pretty sure it coincided with the CHMSL tailgate light. For rear ABS, there should be a valve on the inner driver frame rail (with pigtail harness) near the frame axle kickup. There is a bleeder on it that looks like this
Notice the bleeder on it as well for bleeding upstream of the wheel cylinder (I think, it's been wayyy too long) as opposed to at the wheel cylinders which is for wheel cylinder replacements, but it's good to bleed both as you have no brakes... I don't think it's the MC that's the problem btw. Early Dakota rear ABS is pretty not great. If you pull the tone ring (or just unplug the top sensor) you'll get an ABS and brake light, but it will default to "standard" brakes sans ABS.
@baconsandwich Haha, I had a little "obligatory brake post" of my own on old Oppo a while back (not posted on Reddit, nor included in the weekly roundup). It was embarrassing to have let them get that bad, but it helped me understand that many posts on JRitS aren't just about owners being willfully ignorant. Brakes, for example, can wear down so gradually that you might barely even notice the decrease in performance.
@urambo-tauro I can see how it would be a hard sell, but the rust is horrendous, so I'm surprised that the uptake isn't greater. I wouldn't want to pay for a car and have it be that disposable.
When I bought my Land Rover, it was always my intention to get it coated underneath, but I never got around to it and now it's showing discolouration in some of the paint, hinting at surface rust starting to take hold. 😞
Meanwhile, my Volvo is 33 years old and has a tar-like coating underneath and there's not a speck of rust, except for a tie-down point where some of the coating has been knocked off.
@Old-Busted-Hotness That does sound unpleasant. I Googled it and the first hit I got was Missouri DOT.
@fractalfootwork ah, thanks for the link. Advantages over the factory loop: looks and ease of attaching a strap. But both safer than a hook. A friend does serious stuff so he has serious recovery gear. I'm not interested in off-roading but I could see potentially needing a small bit of this knowledge for snow or something.