Rear ABS only uses a tone ring in the rear diff with a speed sensor on top of the diff. There's a module in the passenger kick panel IIRC. 4 wheel ABS has tone rings on the front hubs too. The only sign under the hood is if you have 4 wheel ABS is there is a hydraulic manifold/module next to the master cylinder IIRC. But you shouldn't as that was an option on 94(???) up - pretty sure it coincided with the CHMSL tailgate light. For rear ABS, there should be a valve on the inner driver frame rail (with pigtail harness) near the frame axle kickup. There is a bleeder on it that looks like this
Notice the bleeder on it as well for bleeding upstream of the wheel cylinder (I think, it's been wayyy too long) as opposed to at the wheel cylinders which is for wheel cylinder replacements, but it's good to bleed both as you have no brakes... I don't think it's the MC that's the problem btw. Early Dakota rear ABS is pretty not great. If you pull the tone ring (or just unplug the top sensor) you'll get an ABS and brake light, but it will default to "standard" brakes sans ABS.
@rallydarkstrike Rust is why I spent $175 for a PPI. A big part of not fucking things up is knowing what you don't know, finding someone who does, and asking them what's up. Shop said the car was rust free and I will work diligently to keep it that way.
@otto The ideal build would be leave as much patina as possible and swap to a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel purely for nostalgia (since it would definitely not help value). In the near term I may level the ride a bit, but overall just planning to get it safe and drivable in the Houston summer (i.e. fix the AC).
So you bought yourself some garage “me” time for Christmas. How thoughtful of you!
This should be a December to remember.
Honestly, the garage "me" time will be dedicated to swapping the diff bushings in my mate's Mk2 Supra before his child arrives into this world. That being said, expect some interesting garage-related developments soon.