@Tripper I've not done the auction thing, and likely wouldn't for a DD, but when I import a 126p I'll be getting a shop to find a good one for me, but I've toyed with importing a cheap Ape off an auction site somewhere somehow...
@exage03040 I should probably buy stands shouldn't I. Sigh. I think I'll have the shop tackle all the small things + tires and do a general look-over. Go from there. They're good people so I'm not worried about them up selling a bunch of BS
Actually, the coffee is only like a mile and half from my house. It was an early pitstop to meet up and lubricate for the rest of the ride. Last weekend was a 35 mile ride for brunch. Sometimes it's a 66 mile ride with lunch or brunch along the way.
Probably doesn't have an oil temp gauge, but guessing the oil temps were up as well. Adding an oil cooler (and maybe even a e-fans/thermo switch on it's cooling loop) will help your engine temps. Same with a trans cooler if the trans is plumbed into the radiator for cooling. Those high load/high altitude scenarios really push oil and trans temps, which oftentimes drives engine temps higher (depending on cooling layout). Power steering can be the same at low speed or high altitude on trails - mostly crawling type but even on 2wd pickups with towing packages you used to get a big PS cooler as well. If you haven't already, I'd look at subsystems too as there may be an easier/better solution than just cooling fans on the rad.
@sony1492 Yup, round tube everywhere except the floor, firewall, and some other "internal" pieces.
The firewall in my build is split into two pieces, one for the engine side and one for the passenger side. That left a pretty large hollow spot at the floor behind the seats, which is covered by a removable section of the firewall.
The fuel is pretty close to the people, but if my gas tank gets crushed, leaking fuel will be the least of my worries.
(Best pic I have right now. I need to do some cleanup in the garage to get some newer pics.)
Update: The tune is a hoot. I also finally was able to find what turned out to be the hardest car part I have ever sourced. It cost me $25 and is used and faded, but correct for my year. Plus it looks a lot cooler than the white one the dealership did a crappy job applying.